As restaurants become, thankfully, more casual and accessible, it’s occasionally nice to be reminded of the power and money concentrated in Manhattan’s midtown. The Four Seasons epitomizes merciless wealth with its vast, modern dining rooms; subdued elegance and “power” tables; and unparalleled service that just simmers below obsequiousness.

The average guest is usually a midtown executive, wealthy visitor or hotel resi...

As restaurants become, thankfully, more casual and accessible, it’s occasionally nice to be reminded of the power and money concentrated in Manhattan’s midtown. The Four Seasons epitomizes merciless wealth with its vast, modern dining rooms; subdued elegance and “power” tables; and unparalleled service that just simmers below obsequiousness.

The average guest is usually a midtown executive, wealthy visitor or hotel resident, but the regulars tend to be captains of industry, many of whom are public figures. The Grill Room is more formal than the Pool Room and host to many power lunches; the Pool Room, true to its name, has a decorative pool as its centerpiece, and a more feminine vibe, although as high-ceilinged and luxurious as the Grill Room. The French/American/Continental menus emphasize luxury ingredients and simple preparation (bluefin tuna tartare, Hudson Valley foie gras, roasted cod, kobe rib eye). Even the casual Front Bar, where one can pop in for a burger or a drink, is effortlessly chic. A prix fixe pre-theater menu is available at $65.

Several private dining rooms are also available.