Museum restaurants have come a long way from being a mere afterthought or just a popular brunch spot. The Modern has been such a popular and critical triumph since the MoMA’s 2004 renovation that it would be entirely plausible to forget the MoMA’s claim to the space, actually few doors down from the MoMA’s main entrance. Once you enter the narrow vestibule, which you may very well unknowingly pass by if you are not looki...

Museum restaurants have come a long way from being a mere afterthought or just a popular brunch spot. The Modern has been such a popular and critical triumph since the MoMA’s 2004 renovation that it would be entirely plausible to forget the MoMA’s claim to the space, actually few doors down from the MoMA’s main entrance. Once you enter the narrow vestibule, which you may very well unknowingly pass by if you are not looking for the small restaurant name, you are hit with a carousing bar and lounge area that looks like it was more inspired by a louche 80s airport lounge than artistic modernity. The Bar Room’s low-slung, leather banquettes and glass tables have morphed into a laidback, congenial lunch and after-work spot, serving great drinks and satisfying bar food that is taken from the table menus. One of its signature dishes from the Alsatian-inspired menu is the targe flambee, a thin pizza-like tart spread with fromage frais, onions and bacon.

If you do manage a reservation for the Dining Room, you will be led behind the massive room divider to a beautiful, airy and light dining room overlooking the garden. Suddenly, the din is lower and the ambiance more sophisticated but still as inviting. The dishes, like the font of the menu, are modern and clean. The Modern European cuisine pairs French classics with American sensibilities (Foie Gras Terrine with Juniper Marinated Raisins); simple seasonal produce with finagled concoctions (Heirloom Tomato Terrine with Micro Basil and Spicy Tomato Sorbet) and vaguely exotic ingredients with luxury cuts of fish and meat (Chorizo-Crusted Chatham Cod, Long Island Duck Breast with Black Trumpet Marmalade). Tasting menus and a lunch prix fixe menu are also available.